Some steps yes, the load-bearing fix usually no. Sealants, better grading, and gutter extensions help at the margins. But interior drainage requires cutting and re-pouring the slab, and a botched discharge or a DIY coating over hydrostatic pressure commonly fails and has to be redone professionally.
More detail
There is a real DIY tier and a real professional tier, and the trouble comes from confusing them. Homeowner-appropriate steps that genuinely help at the margins: extending downspouts and gutters to carry roof water well away from the foundation, regrading soil so it slopes away from the wall, sealing obvious gaps around penetrations, and running a dehumidifier for a vapor-only humidity problem. These reduce the water load and are worth doing. What does not work as DIY is fixing hydrostatic seepage with an interior coating or a "waterproof paint." Coatings sit on the negative (inside) side of the wall and cannot relieve the pressure pushing water through; they blister and fail when the water table rises, and they can trap moisture in the wall and make block deterioration worse. Interior drainage, the actual fix, requires saw-cutting and breaking out the perimeter slab, excavating to the footer, setting drain tile and a sump, and pouring the slab back flush, which is heavy, skilled work with little margin for error, and a discharge that has to comply with MSDGC or SD1 rules. The common DIY failure modes we are called to redo: a French drain run with flexible corrugated tubing that silts shut within a couple of seasons, an undersized big-box plastic sump pump that burns out in the first heavy storm, a discharge dumped right against the foundation so the water recirculates, and a sanitary-sewer discharge that violates code and backflows. If you do tackle the marginal steps yourself, do them; just recognize that for a basement under hydrostatic pressure, the slab-cutting interior system is where professional installation earns its cost, including the warranty and the compliant discharge.