The finished wall along the leaking area has to come out so the drainage system can reach the cove joint and wall, then go back. Interior drainage still works in a finished basement; it just adds demo and restoration cost. We remove and reset finishes as part of the scope.
More detail
A leaking finished basement is one of the more frustrating Cincinnati situations because the water is doing its damage behind drywall, where it is hidden until the finish is already ruined and mold has a head start. The mechanics of the fix do not change: hydrostatic seepage at the cove joint and walls still needs interior drainage to relieve the pressure and route water to a sump. What changes is access. To install the perimeter drain tile and the wall drainage membrane, the finished wall, baseboard, and flooring along the protected wall have to be removed so the crew can reach the slab edge and the foundation, then restored afterward. That demo-and-restore work is the main reason a finished-basement waterproofing job sits at the higher end of the interior drainage range. We scope the removal and reset of finishes as part of the quote so there is no surprise change order, and we coordinate the sequence so framing and drywall go back over a system that is now keeping the wall dry. A common and costly mistake is trying to "spot fix" a finished-basement leak by patching drywall and re-sealing visible spots without addressing the water under the slab; the water returns at the next heavy rain and you have paid for finish work twice. We also flag any mold found behind the removed finishes, because hidden moisture frequently means hidden growth that should be remediated before the wall is closed back up. If the basement is not yet finished but you are planning to finish it, waterproofing first is the right order: it is far cheaper to install drainage in an open basement than to tear out new finishes later.