Sometimes, and it is the cheapest thing to try first. Roof water concentrated at the foundation is a common and fixable cause. If the problem persists after downspouts are extended and grading is corrected, the water is coming from the water table.
More detail
Exterior water management is genuinely the first thing to fix, both because it is inexpensive and because no interior system should be asked to handle water that never needed to arrive. Start with the roof. A single downspout can deliver a very large volume in one storm, and a downspout that discharges at the foundation puts all of it directly against the wall. Extensions carrying water at least six to ten feet away, or into a buried line running to daylight, remove that load entirely. Check that gutters are not overflowing at the back edge, that they are pitched correctly, and that underground drain lines are not crushed or blocked, which is common and invisible. Then grading. Soil should fall away from the house roughly six inches over the first ten feet. Backfill settles over the years and often reverses that slope, creating a trough that collects water against the foundation. Regrading with soil rather than mulch, and keeping it below the sill plate, is a weekend of work or a small excavator day. Then the details that get missed: window wells without drainage or covers, a patio or drive pitched toward the house, a flower bed with a raised border that traps water, and a neighbor's downspout aimed across the property line. The honest limits. If the basement takes water at the cove joint during sustained rain rather than during peak intensity, the water table is rising and exterior work will not stop it. If seepage is present on multiple walls, it is not a single downspout. And if the house sits at a low point in the neighborhood, drainage improvements reduce the load without eliminating it. The reasonable test: fix the cheap exterior items, then watch through a full wet season before committing to interior work.