If the basement has ever taken water, yes, and before framing rather than after. Retrofitting drain tile into a finished basement means demolishing the walls and flooring you just installed along the entire affected perimeter.
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Sequencing decides whether this is a normal project cost or a very expensive lesson. Interior drain tile requires breaking out the perimeter slab. In an unfinished basement that is a straightforward day of work with a concrete saw and a wheelbarrow. In a finished basement it means removing baseboard, flooring, drywall, insulation, and framing along every wall being treated, then reinstalling all of it. The waterproofing cost is the same; the demolition and rebuild are additional and can approach the cost of the finishing work itself. Before framing anything, run the checks. Look for efflorescence, staining at the cove joint, rust at the base of steel columns or appliances, and any prior patching. Ask the seller or previous owner directly. Then test the slab for moisture: tape a two-foot square of plastic sheeting to the floor, seal all four edges, and leave it 48 to 72 hours. Moisture under the plastic means vapor is moving through the slab, which affects flooring choice even if you never see liquid water. Build the assembly to tolerate what will eventually happen. That means a capillary break and vapor retarder against the slab, framing held off the foundation wall rather than against it, insulation that does not lose value or grow anything when it gets damp, and no organic material in contact with concrete. Rigid foam and steel framing behave far better than wood studs and fiberglass batts in this location. And leave access. A finished basement with no way to reach the sump, the cleanouts, or the wall behind the framing is a basement where the next problem is invisible until it is large.